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When flying above the British Virgin Islands, this is what you see: turquoise-blue water speckled with islands—some big, some small—boasting salt-rimmed bays; soft, white-sand beaches; and lush tropical foliage. You see boats—lots of them—from yachts to massive sailboats anchored just off the shores of each island. This is, after all, the world’s charter-boat capital. And, tucked into the mountainsides