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“I hate Toronto,” a Canadian recently told me. Clearly she had not visited the same “Torrono,” as the locals pronounce it, that I did—the artsy side, known as West Queen West. Helen Racanelli—a travel writer and friend of mine who has lived for three decades in the West Queen West area, the center of the hip art and design district—says Toronto “was the city that often played other cities in movies, but never played itself.”